It’s never fun to turn around on a mountain, especially not after so many days of preparing and anticipation. Still we had a great adventure and the scenery was magnificent. Pik Lenin (7134m). In 1974, eight Russian female climbers froze to death in a storm. The views were great. Among others, he scaled the 6,962-meter-high Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America, and the seven-thousander Pik Lenin. Pik Lenin 10. 7:30 a.m. depart Pik Chetyreh basecamp, 10:00 a.m. arrive Moskvina. They seemed to move slow but steady and I guessed they all would make the summit. In the upper section of the camp, most tents are placed, but it’s hard to find a flat spot there. It turned out that Dominik Salcher* was there to participate in the Pik Lenin Sky Marathon in the beginning of August. At the steepest section in the icefall the slope was around 45° and a fixed rope was attached. . Lenin Peak may be called the world’s easiest 7,000m mountain, but don’t let anyone tell you that climbing Peak Lenin is easy. Expedition Pik Lenin, 7134 m - Ein Gipfel des Schneeleoparden-Ordens. Pferdefestival Redefin - 2019 - watch our live stream and ondemand videos on ClipMyHorse.TV. The Soviet mountaineers loved it,” Imenjon said as we tucked in. Einer der Schneeleoparden in der Trans-Alai-Kette, leichter 7000er. I was met by the Ak-Sai representative in the arrival hall after receiving my two heavy duffels from the baggage claim. ABC back to Base Camp. Outside it was not completely dark due to moonlight. Wie es mir da erging erfahrt ihr in diesem Bericht. Straight from the ABC. I didn’t really mind, since Osh is a rather busy town with a lot of traffic and noise. 60 kgs of my gear followed by horse but still my backpack did not feel very light. It started to seem that I only encountered trail running athletes on this trip! Gib hier deinen Kommentar ein ... Trage deine Daten unten ein oder klicke ein Icon um dich einzuloggen: Previous. As I don't have any experience with them yet regarding the expedition itself, I don't know how they are in the mountains. What Herbert meant, was the fact that the conditions can change even an apparently easy mountain into a difficult and dangerous one. “There are no easy mountains and certainly no easy seven-thousanders.” I remember very clearly these words of my Austrian expedition leader Herbert Wolf in 2011, on the 7,246-meter-high Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII) in Nepal. In 1990 when Pik Lenin was the scene of the most fatal mountain accident of all times, an avalanche, triggered by an earthquake, swiped the entire Camp 2 away. Pik Lenin 2019 gut unterwegs! Climbing harness (Black Diamond) some carabiners and 1 icescrew 15cm, GPS (Garmin eTrex20) with BirdsEye subscription, Iphone6 with MapsMe app used as backup GPS, VHF/UHF radio (Baofeng) to connect to Ak-Sai frequency 153.625, Satellite/text communication (Garmin Inreach mini), Solar panel (Gozero) and powerbank 20'000 mAh (not used on the mountain), Camera (Canon EOS 1200D) with 35-70mm lens, The luxury of having a 2 person tent. Alternativ kann man auch den Weg bis Sary Mogul in einem offizielen Bus in Angriff nehmen. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Dann geht die Fahrt über eine zum Teil gut asphaltierte Straße, dem Pamir Highway, zur Grenze. Zwei Franzosen berichten, wie der Sturm ihr Zelt mitsamt der Ausrüstung in eine Gletscherspalte geweht hat. I sincerely felt a bit stressed over this since I knew how bad a cold could impact my further ventures on the mountain. Distance wise it’s not far from Camp 2 to Camp 3, but the elevation is 800 m and the last part up to Pik Razdelnaya on which Camp 3 is situated, is very steep, probably around 45° and when carrying a pack of around 15-20 kgs it doesn’t get easier. Camp 2 is nicknamed ‘The Frying pan’. Zoltan Slanko had to pass due to health problems on the summit day and turn back from Camp 3. I did not want to follow his speed once more since I was afraid of burning too much of my energy. With a climb to the top of Yulan Peak at 5,100 meters, and a day front pointing up and rappelling down the ice cliffs on the glacier, we were set to tackle the heights. Juli 2021 Expedition. That is always a very welcoming sight. Der Pik Lenin gilt als einer der leichtesten Siebentausender der Welt. Thus his early arrival…. Die Aconcagua Expedition habe ich mir - wie schon jene auf Pik Lenin und Mustagh Ata - wieder von der Ruefa (vormals Verkehrsbüro) organisieren lassen. Viewing Images attached to Mountain/Rock: Pik Lenin View All Images. Descending the snow fields went rather smooth and after a while I met the large group I encountered the same night. Départ cette nuit pour 4 jours d'acclimatation jusqu'à l'installation du camp 3 à 6100m, puis retour à l'ABC. Having said that, I in all honesty did encounter one or two smaller crevasses on top of the crest after the gully. The fall of the other two climbers ended on the side of the crevasse, one injured his knee, the other miraculously remained intact. Pik Lenin. I knew I would need every bit of it in the days to come. Der Pik Lenin (früher auch Pik Kaufmann, heute auch Pik Abuali Ibni) ist der höchste Berg der Transalai-Kette im nördlichen Teil des Pamir. She was the female winner of the Lenin Peak Sky Marathon 2019. After the Knife, tiredness kicked in and the plateau felt endless. On the day after arrival at Camp 3, Sophie decided to try for the summit instead of taking an extra rest day at camp. Although it gave me a very good overview of the continuing route up to Camp 3 at 6.100 m and Pik Razdelnaya. The trail was still good and route finding was easy. It didn’t look promising with those thick threatening dark clouds starting to build up around us. Die Jahre 2019, 2018 und 2017 waren exzellent mit idealen Bedingungen für die Everest-Besteigung mit gut 80% Erfolgsquote über alle Teilnehmer unser Expeditionen. He was the male winner of the Lenin Peak Sky Marathon 2019. Meanwhile I had called ABC over my VHF radio. During dinner I made friends with some other climbers at my table from Canada and Russia who I would expect to bump into every now and then during the weeks ahead. Client: Wolfgang Kristinus; Date: September 2019; Our job: Cut, Imaging, Inverview, Inserts, Music Productions and Sync, PostPro; Close. Der Pik Lenin (früher auch Pik Kaufmann, heute auch Pik Abuali Ibni) ist der höchste Berg der Transalai-Kette im nördlichen Teil des Pamir. I guess they were primary there to aid the porters who soloed the routes in the afternoon and occasionally clipped in. The Swiss female trail runner athlete Sophie Audrey climbed with me up the gully. Commercial expedition operators often call Peak Lenin in Kyrgyzstan an “easy seven-thousander” or an “entry seven-thousander”. Pik Lenin was lurking in the background. Kyrgyzstan’s classic! The second time around – Solo on Pik Lenin, Images The moderate difficulties of this popular 8,000m peak make it accessible for many aspirants. Najboljša možnost za osvojitev sedemtisočaka! After a sip of tea we mounted our empty packs and begun our descent back to ABC. Pik Lenin s svojimi 7134 m ni enostavna gora, pa vendarle predstavlja eno najlažjih možnosti za osvojitev magične meje 7000 metrov. We others were not able to react because of the short rope connection and were also pulled down into the 20- meter-deep crevasse.” After one full hour of breath-taking views it was time for decent. am 16. (18), Comments food & drinks at checkpoints. In diesem Jahr wollte ich einmal ein spezielles Abenteuer wagen. On our descent, we encountered numerous of climbing teams. This also applied to the food that had been deposited in the high camps. Pik Lenin 10. Ascend 6230m Pik Chetyreh, sleep 5100m. Camp 1 would be home for two weeks, with our stand up tents, dining tent and tables, a shower on call and three hot meals a day. In vain I tried to spot the Chinese giant Muztagh Ata of 7.546 m in the east, but misty clouds made it impossible. In Sommer 2019 bestieg ich den Pik Lenin. Eine privat organisierte Reise kommt nicht billiger, im Gegenteil: Die Zeit, die man sich. Here it was very important to watch steps carefully. The mountain was repeatedly the arena for tragedies. I still have hard to understand how I managed to climb to Camp 2 in only 4 hours. Mountain photo from Karl Marx Peak: view of the valley , taken at 4:34 pm 1 Sep 2019 by Camille de Schoulepnikoff Three other members of the expedition, which had been organized by a Kyrgyz agency, were lucky enough to survive the accident. However, at this point the weather was still good and it was not close to the cold I experienced six years ago, so due to these two facts, I was pretty convinced that I could aim for a very early start from Camp 3 straight to the summit. The trail was well beaten and I quickly reached the bottom of the saddle and started the switchbacks in a slow but steady pace. I wondered how she was doing up there. Detailed 6 day hill, mountain and summit forecasts for up to 5 different elevations per mountain. Hier gabs richtig fett auf die Schnauze. Prices and download plans . In fact this was on day 12 and I was exactly in sync with my timetable. April 2017 von Bummelnder Kompass. Gletscher Pik Lenin (7.134 m) • Grenze zu China Genießen Sie den frühen Morgen in dieser abgelegenen Gegend, wenn die ersten Sonnenstrahlen auf die Gletscher des Pik Lenin (7.134 m) fallen. ”-You see those dark clouds?” Rumen said. Obwohl die klassische Route technisch nicht kompliziert ist, gehört die Besteigung des Pik Lenin zum Höhenbergsteigen und fordert von den Bergsteigern eine gute körperliche Vorbereitung, psychische Gesundheit, entsprechende Ausrüstung und richtige … 20 kgs porter service with mule BC-ABC-BC. Believe it or not but the weather was still perfect when I set out on my move to Camp 3. ... Pik Beletskiy from the southeast showing the 2019 Czechoslovak Route and high camp. Needless to mention we were the first team out and could enjoy the beautiful scenery all by ourselves. Wolfgang Kristinus and 8 other climbers start the adventure to the fascinating Pik Lenin in Kyrgyzstan, which is 7.124 meters high. Visualizing a mountain of data. I just asked myself; when is it going to change? I was able to retreat to my sleeping bag right after 18:00 h. The night was a lot more quite than the night before. The Cackle of Hens Wir publizieren heute einen wichtigen Debattenartikel der von einem Genossen in den Vereinigten Staaten geschrieben wurde. ZAGOTOVLJENI ODHODI V 2020! So much for “easy seven-thousander”. View The second time around – Solo on Pik Lenin Image Gallery - 18 Images. There was no activity. In 1990, the mountaineering accident with the most fatalities ever occurred on Peak Lenin: An earthquake triggered an ice avalanche that buried a high camp completely. Publication Year: 2020. The Zaalaysky Range, which includes Peak Lenin (7,134m), forms a border between Kyrgyzstan in the north and Tajikistan to the south. Sign in Sign up for FREE Prices and download plans Since I was going solo I could not cross the Lenin glacier by myself due to the potential crevasse danger, so therefore I was forced to do a layover at Camp 2 before I could tackle the glacier in the early morning. 1990 ereignete sich am Pik Lenin das Bergsteiger-Unglück mit den meisten Todesopfern überhaupt: Ein Erdbeben löste eine Eislawine aus, die ein Lager komplett verschüttete. When the driver drove through the river basin still on campground, the sky opened up and a heavy rainshower hit Achik-Tash with full power. Photo: Mark Aitken. Rather quickly 30 minutes passed. This summer a mega ice avalanche has swept down on the Tibetan plateau. Seitdem hat mich das ferne Bergsteigen in neuen Kulturen und fremden Länder in fester Hand. 13.5 hour day. ** Oksana Stefanishina (Russia) summited on 5 August. Bergsteigerschule des Deutschen Alpenvereins und nachhaltiger Spezialreiseveranstalter für aktive Berg- und Kulturerlebnisse weltweit. Am 4.8. fuhren wir dann über den Alaj (Pamirhighway, Tschyrtschyk-Pass, 2402m, Gultschaschlucht, Taldyk-Pass, 3589m) ins breite, etwa 3000m hoch gelegenen Alaital und von Sary Mogol über den Kyzl Suu (=Roter Fluss, machte seinem Namen allle Ehre) und die folgenden 40km Schotterpiste zum Basislager des Pik Lenin, der auf der Grenze zwischen Kirgistan und Tadjikistan liegt. With my entire equipment and garbage bag to be carried down, I guess my pack was between 25-30 kgs. Expeditionen führen weltweit in entlegene Gebiete und Gebirge ausserhalb der Zivilisation. “In the morning of 7 August, we were the first group to climb via the normal route from Camp 1 at 4,400 meters across the snow-covered and crevassed glacier to Camp 2 at 5,300 meters“, a member of the rope team of four told me. Pik Lenin. Pik Lenin Also known as Ibn Sina Peak (7134m), Kyrgyzstan & Tajikistan Get Started. Weitere Termine. Due to the windy night, we delayed our start. Besteigung des Pik Lenin (7134 m) mit 2 oder 3 Hochlagern technisch einfache 7000er-Bergtour herrlicher Pamir viel Zeit zum Akklimatisieren mit Besteigung des Pik Rasdelnaja (6148 m) DIAMIR-Expeditionsleitung komfortables Basislager Hochlagerausrüstung, Verpflegung & Gepäcktransport mit Pferden ins Basislager At the steepest section in the icefall I used the fixed ropes to rappel, using my rappel device. After over a week in the Pamir mountains I felt pretty good. Weitere Termine. Pik Lenin in a storm up at 6.500 m is a very dangerous place to be. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Pferdefestival Redefin - 2019 - watch our live stream and ondemand videos on ClipMyHorse.TV. Click to view the full resolution link. The comprehensive weather resource is aimed at climbers, mountaineers, hillwalkers, hikers or outdoor enthusiasts planning expeditions where mountain weather is critical. I was impressed by how the numerous of fixed tents were neatly arranged in straight lines by companies like Ak-Sai, Central Asia Travel, Asia Outdoor etc. Prices and download plans . Dave September 7, 2019 September 7, 2019 Bikepacking, Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan. We started our descent back to Camp 3 at 6.100 m and soon we were back in the tents, sipping hot tea and looking back at the summit ridge, which soon was to be dressed in hostile clouds. Due to the fact that I had catered for some extra spare days, I now unexpectedly had some extra time to kill. When I took a last glimpse out of my tent when zipping up, I saw stars. In fact I left my climbing gear at Camp 2. I had 24 hours in Osh until pick-up to Base camp. An sich keine große Herausforderung, wenn die Akklimatisierung stimmt. Pik Lenin 7134m . The weather was excellent. He took a 40-meter rope, but insisted on paying out only 20 meters.” Later that proved fatal. The “Knife” came closer, a perilous ridgeline with vertical drop-offs, which is considered to be the crux of the entire route and one of the important landmarks. Peak Lenin, near base camp.jpg 4,068 × 2,712; 3.17 MB Pik Lenin - ascent routes nord.jpg 2,409 × 1,091; 217 KB Pik Lenin from Sary-Mogol.JPG 864 × 648; 106 KB Now it all begun and everything was now entirely up to me. For the third time, the German top climber Ines Papert traveled to the 5842-meter-high mountain to try to climb a new route via the difficult Southeast Face, which she just couldn’t get out of her mind. Peak Lenin - Razdelnaya route Images : SummitPost.org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering finisher medal. Pik Lenin. I'm doing Lenin Peak this summer (July 2nd to to 20th July) using Ak-Sai. „You don’t have to be a fantastic hero to do certain things – to compete. Oksana raced from ABC to the summit of Pik Lenin in 8 hrs and 10 minutes. Maria , an enthusiastic skier , is a sorter in the Fur Trust , but spends all her spare time on the ski runs of the hills near Moscow . Micke’s first few photos sent from Pik Lenin. But then, at about 5,000 meters, the team reached a big crevasse, into which the wind had blown a lot of snow. Soon I thought I needed to pay the price since I felt the good weather window was very much getting overdue. Zdravko at ABC called climbing teams on the mountain four times during the day to ask about position, progress and plans. The food was very fresh and tasted good. Memorial stone for the victims of the ice avalanche in 1990. On day 19 the minivan rolled out of Base Camp. Early bird bonus 3% until 02.03.21. Stamp of Kyrgyzstan 233.jpg 589 × 404; 57 KB. Soon it was pretty clear that Dominik and me played in different leagues. Next . “You should really look carefully under whose care you put yourself on such an expedition.”, Memorial stone for the victims of the ice avalanche in 1990. According to his words, the Russian mountain guide was an experienced man who had already summited eight-thousanders. Oksana raced from ABC to the summit of Pik Lenin in 8 hrs and 10 minutes. It was rather boring I must say. Well at least we were not roped together so…. Later I found out that her name was Oksana Stefanishina** from Sotji. Many memories came back from 2013 when I was there with Johan the last time. I tried to send a satellite text message from the summit but I had to give up as it got too painful to fiddle around with those small buttons with bare fingers. Kirgistan 2019 - Pik Lenin. Peak Lenin was first climbed by a Soviet-German expedition in 1928. My two Nalgene bottles I had put in my sleeping bag, but for the water used for my light breakfast I melted some snow I had collected the night before. The yellow Red Fox tents were erected between huge piles of snow and the wooden terrace looked like a little island in the snow landscape. “He had neither a helmet nor an ice axe. I climbed solo above 5300m Camp 2, using a basecamp support package for 3500m Basecamp and 4400m Advanced Basecamp ("Camp 1") from Central Asian Travel. They exert an almost magical pull, even if they are as difficult to reach as the Kyzyl Asker in the border region between China and Kyrgyzstan. My flight arrangements back to Sweden was not possible to reschedule due to full flights out of Moscow. The following day I undertook a nice hike around the base of Pik Petrovsky, immediately to the west of the Base Camp. Peak Lenin. ** Oksana Stefanishina (Russia) summited on 5 August. Nikolai Petrovich Gorbunov, Chief of the Executive of the Soviet of People's Commissars (at one time personal secretary and scientific adviser to Vladimir Lenin himself), lead multiple expeditions in the Western Pamirs between 1928 and 1932, including the first ascent of Pik Lenin. My huge Milo down jacket was like a monster which really would fight the cold. “That was gross negligence”, said the climber. In February 2020, Alex reached the summit of the 6,814-meter-high Ama Dablam in Nepal, not far from Mount Everest. Bring a VHF/UHF radio (Especially if you go solo) Make sure to get the correct frequency! A short and intense rainfall put an end to the first day and left a muddy mess outside my big Redfox tent. Suddenly I walked up to the odd looking heap of items which marked the highest point of Pik Lenin. This time the track was laid as one big steep direct climb instead of numerous switchbacks, which was the case last time. July 18th Descend to 4330m basecamp. It was like a little remote artic village up there. It also became warm and I had to take off some of my layers. Mountain weather forecasts for over 11300 mountain summits around the world. All Rights Reserved. 1974 gerieten acht russische Bergsteigerinnen in einen Sturm und erfroren. Inzwischen weiss ich, wie sich meine Psyche verhält, wenn ich allein bin und dennoch war es für mich ein Experiment. Thus the Camp 4 plan was abandoned. If a good mood could be converted into electricity, Ines Papert right now wouldn’t need any socket at home. Despite my extra spare day I took while at Base Camp. Gipfel des Pik Lenins. Mouseover an icon [] in the map to view the photo. The climbing community is small. Genauer gesagt nach Kirgisistan, um den 7.000er Pik Lenin mit Skiern zu besteigen und zu befahren, leider ohne Gipfelerfolg (siehe Blog). Pik Lenin 2019. The weather still remained good. Therefore, we did not hang around for a long time. Click again to zoom out. I was quite confident in my clothing as I did not expect extreme cold nor too bad winds. Pik Lenin from Sary-Mogol.JPG 864 × 648; 106 KB. When down climbing, I had to face the slope and do some good old front pointing. That season the weather was very unstable and we missed out on the few good weather windows which came across our way. He was part of a large group of around 12-14 climbers, many of which I had met in Base camp before. Juli - 31. Media in category "Lenin Peak" The following 35 files are in this category, out of 35 total. Full of excitement I put my remaining cloth on. Share. 24. “-You should have a partner when crossing the glacier” Zdravko said. I felt tired. In the Aru Range in northwestern Tibet a whole glacier tongue broke off and tumbled down into the valley. Der Pik Lenin (russisch Пик Ленина Pik Lenina, kirgisisch Ленин Чокусу Lenin Čokusu, tadschikisch bis 2006 Қуллаи Ленин Qullai Lenin, ursprünglich Pik Kaufmann oder Kaufmann-Spitze) ist der höchste Berg der Transalai-Kette im nördlichen Teil des Pamir (Zentralasien). The powdered snow melting on her fur coat and cap , her face alight with the joy of winter , Maria Sikorskata acts out for a ski run on the white alopes of the Lenin Hills , near Moscow . But route finding was easy.